Thanks to superior materials and methods alike, the best Japanese denim is more popular than ever before. What was previously a somewhat niche industry continues to explode, as more and more people seek out quality over quantity. Naturally, one might wonder: why are Japanese denim jeans different than those from countries like America (i.e. the birthplace of this wardrobe essential)? Let’s find out before we dive into our list of the best Japanese denim brands.

Why is Japanese Denim Considered the Best?

In the decades following WWII, nearly all the denim in Japan was sourced from America. However, a company named Kurabo Mills decided to craft its own denim fabric in the small town of Kojima (which is now known as a veritable Japanese denim hub within the broader Okayama prefecture). After some gruelling trial and error, Kurabo created KD-8 denim in 1972. KD was named for the mill in which the material was created and 8 made reference to the number of attempts it took to get it right. As one might suspect, the Japanese denim from Kurabo Mills was starkly different than your average fare. Namely, it used natural dye and was made on old looms to produce selvedge fabric. Native brand Big John incorporated the denim into its “M” Series and a new industry was born. It’s an industry that would change and evolve over subsequent decades, but also stay true to a number of its materials and methods.

What is Japanese Selvedge Denim?

While Japanese denim jeans might differ from one pair to the next, the country’s foremost brands are best known for two things: selvedge denim and raw denim. These terms are often used interchangeably, but they aren’t quite the same thing. To elucidate, raw denim is denim that hasn’t been pre-washed and selvedge denim—which comes from the phrase “self-edge”—refers to a tight and natural edge that can only be achieved via specific methods. When selvedge (also known as selvage) denim is turned into a pair of jeans, it prevents unravelling and retains a clean look. It’s more costly to produce than non-selvedge denim and thereby featured on expensive Japanese jeans. Selvedge denim can be used on both un-washed (i.e. raw) and pre-washed jeans alike. To learn more about both raw and selvedge denim, check out this article.

The Best Japanese Denim Brands

Jeans from the best Japanese raw denim brands will typically cost more and require some extra TLC, but they’ll also deliver more character, colour, variability, style, comfort, and prestige. It’s then only natural that you might want to score a pair. Here’s our list of the best Japanese denim brands:

1. Momotaro

This top brand hails from Kojima, where the Japanese denim industry was born and where it continues to thrive. Handmade using rare materials like Zimbabwe cotton and a natural indigo dyeing process, Momotaro jeans don’t just resist fading, they get a little darker with age. Founded in : 2006
Located in : Kojima
Known for: Selvedge denim jeans that are handmade using Zimbabwe cotton
Check it out

2. Oni Denim

If hard-to-find Japanese jeans went by any other name, that name might very well be Oni. Shrouded in secrecy, the brand keeps the exact details of its elusive weaving methods tightly under wraps. According to legend, each pair is handwoven on a vintage shuttle loom by an ancient master-weaver named Oishi-San. Whatever the methods, the resulting selvedge denim jeans are duly distinguished by their slim fits and unique textures. Good luck scoring a pair!
Located in: Okayama
Known for: Rare selvedge denim jeans
Check it out

Continue Reading on MAN OF MANY